Foul weather was our constant companion from the start of 2024. It wore us down, the sombre grey sky, the biting wind, the constant rain. There was no pleasure to be had in going out, so we stayed at home, and as grim weeks ganged up to become relentlessly miserable months we started to go stir-crazy. So when, at last, conditions began to improve we quickly decided we deserved a treat, courtesy of our local heritage railway.
This is Peak Rail at its best…the sight, and the sounds and the smells of a gleaming, steaming locomotive! This loco was built in 1955.
We live in Derbyshire, on the edge of the Peak District. Famed for the natural beauty of its limestone hills and verdant dales, in 1951 the Peak District became the UK’s first national park. The railway that crossed it, running between Derby and Manchester, was a triumph of nineteenth century civil engineering. It was claimed by many to be Britain’s most scenic railway line.
Sadly I never got to find out in person if this claim was true. Much of the line was closed down in the 1960s, the victim of an efficiency drive shaped by the infamous “Beeching Report” of 1962. Accountants, politicians and British Rail bosses doubtless allowed themselves a glass of champagne to celebrate this “victory” for cost-effectiveness, but railway enthusiasts were dismayed. Their response was to band together to form the “Peak Railway Society” – later “Peak Rail Operations – with the aim of restoring the line for recreational and community use.
This is the little steam locomotive that pulled our restaurant car. It dates from 1946.
Half a century later, the dream lives on. Peak Rail has succeeded in re-opening around 4 miles (6.5 km) of track, between Rowsley South Station and Matlock, over which it operates a service featuring heritage steam and diesel locomotives. Here’s how Peak Rail describes its offer:
Whether it’s simply a nostalgic journey back to a bygone age or a discovery of the sights and sounds…of a steam or diesel locomotive[,] Peak Rail welcomes you to experience the thrill of our preserved railway whilst travelling through the delightful Derbyshire countryside…As well as our normal train journeys, there is something for everyone to enjoy, luxury dining is available on our Palatine Restaurant Car which offers Afternoon Teas and operates on various days during the year. [Source: Peak rail website, retrieved 14 May, 2024]
Views from the train hint at the picturesque charms of Derbyshire’s rural landscape
The reality, it must be said, proved to be more modest than the marketing hype. The part of Derbyshire through which the train travels is pleasant, but not exceptional (it’s on the edge of the national park rather than within it), and given that the line is just 4 miles long there’s not a huge amount to see. The locomotive that powered our train gleamed brightly in the welcome afternoon sunshine, but wasn’t by any stretch of the imagination remarkable in the context of other UK heritage steam trains. And the Afternoon Tea, while thoroughly enjoyable, didn’t align with my understanding of the words “luxury dining!”
But it’s important to remember that this is an organisation run by volunteers, and a service delivered almost entirely by volunteers. It’s not a commercial operation, so you have to adjust your expectations accordingly.
Not the best Afternoon Tea we’ve ever had, but the setting makes it a memorable treat
Peak Rail offers an opportunity to escape the rigours of the 21st century for a couple of hours, and to wallow in nostalgia. Back in the 1970s, dear old British Rail – the late, unlamented provider of the UK’s national rail network at the time – ran a series of commercials that sought to persuade motorists to abandon their cars in favour of rail travel. Its strapline was “let the train take the strain,” and that’s just what we did for a couple of hours, courtesy of Peak Rail.
Thanks to Peak Rail we were finally able to get back on track, after many months of meteorological misery. I’m pleased to report that a fine time was had by all
Now I'm 64 
Looks fun, and the setting for the tea looks great as you say.
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It was a memorable afternoon. Hopefully we’ll do it again before too long.
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What a gorgeous train. Love the red. I drove around the Peak District (very nervously I might tell you) in 2011 and thought it was lovely.
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Glad you liked the Peak District. It’s a beautiful part of the country (OK, I know, I’m a little biased!)
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The train must practically crawl to make the most of those 4 miles, yeah? Pardon my ignorance as a Yank, but what makes a good afternoon tea?
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The train parked up for ages to enable us to enjoy the view, but I could still have beaten it on foot…but no worries, that was part of the pleasure, enforced relaxation enhanced by Afternoon Tea.
This Afternoon Tea was somewhat lacking in quantity, variety and finesse, but at least we didn’t have to cook that evening. Several years ago I wrote a post on the history and joys of Afternoon Tea, If you follow the link it will tell you everything you could possibly need to know (or possibly rather too much 🙂) about this quaintly English tradition https://64reflections.home.blog/2020/02/19/an-english-tradition-the-joy-of-afternoon-tea/
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Thanks for the link. Now I’m educated on the concept of afternoon tea and I’m hungry!
I know it may be apocryphal or an example of mistaking a popularizer for an inventor, but the afternoon tea origin story sounds a lot like the sandwich origin. I love the idea that the Earl of Sandwich wanted to consolidate bread, meat and cheese at the gambling table, and started a trend that thrives two centuries later.
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Difficult to believe that we Brits were once a dominant world power, given that the ruling elite was focussed almost exclusively on food and the best way / time to eat it!
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I’m so glad this historic train carried you away from “meteorological misery” and allowed you to “wallow in nostalgia.” I hope more pleasant journeys and weather await this summer.
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We’re off to Scotland very soon, but before then the forecasters predict more meteorological misery. What a year!
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I hope the marvel of Scotland will outweigh whatever misery is in the offing. Happy travels!
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That’s a beautiful steam engine – love the red! I hope the weather is kind to you when you’re in Scotland!
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Cute, isn’t it, like the second cousin (once removed!) of Thomas the Tank Engine! Currently staying at an inn on the banks of the Tay, weather reasonable, heading west tomorrow and getting a ferry to the Outer Hebrides on Saturday…hoping for a calm crossing!
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Ah, fingers crossed for a fine crossing!
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