Rise and fall, and rise again: Chesterfield Canal

Exploring places within a reasonable driving distance of home has become the norm in the year of Covid, so a few weeks ago we decided to take a walk along part of the Chesterfield Canal. It delivered exactly what we were looking for: a gentle, peaceful stroll in the countryside, with minimal risk of encountering someone bent on sharing their viral load with us

There was almost nobody else out of the towpath that morning and it was difficult to imagine that this waterway was once a bustling hive of activity, a superhighway of barges and narrowboats hauled by long-suffering workhorses.

Oneslide lock

Designed by the so-called “father of English canals” James Brindley, the canal was built in the 1770s between Chesterfield and the River Trent in Nottinghamshire, a distance of around 74 km (46 miles). The aim was to link the Derbyshire town and its hinterland with a growing network of canals and navigable rivers that criss-crossed a country in the early stages of the Industrial Revolution.

The Chesterfield Canal was an ambitious project. It had 65 locks, including some of the earliest staircase locks ever built, and two tunnels. The canal was a lifeline for the coal and steel industry in North Derbyshire, but also carried ale, pottery, lime and timber.

However the most impressive cargo carried on the the Chesterfield Canal was stone for the construction of the new Houses of Parliament. Between 1841-44 an average of 4,877 tonnes (4,800 tons) or 5,663 cubic metres (200,000 cubic feet) per annum made the journey.

Thorpe Low treble lock

Quarried at North Anston in Yorkshire, the stone was dragged overland two miles to Dog Kennels wharf, where it was loaded onto narrowboats for a journey along the canal to the River Trent. From here it was taken downriver to the sea, then south along the English coast before being moved up the River Thames. The average time from the stone leaving the quarry in Yorkshire to reaching the London building site was two weeks.

Coincidentally, we ended our walk along the canal at Dog Kennels, so named because the grand old Duke of Leeds once kept his hunting hounds there. Today, it’s difficult to imagine the connection between this unremarkable part of Nottinghamshire and the Houses of Parliament, one of the UK’s most iconic and instantly recognisable buildings.

Turnerwood, a “picture-perfect hamlet” on the canalside

In fact, at the time of the Houses of Parliament project the UK’s Canal Age was already drawing to a close. By the 1850s the country was in the grip of a railway fever. Canal transport was inevitably slow, constrained by the speed at which horses could haul their loads. Moreover canals were prone to freeze in winter and dry out in summer. Railways did not suffer these problems, and canal transport declined steadily in the face of their upstart competitor.

By the early 1900s the Chesterfield Canal had lost most trade in manufactured goods and sundries, and the cargoes which remained were low-value and high-bulk; coal, coke, stone, bricks, aggregates, timber and grain. In 1908 the Norwood tunnel collapsed, preventing traffic between Chesterfield and Shireoaks. After World War 1 other stretches became increasingly overgrown and neglected, and all traffic on the canal finally ceased in 1955.

Brown’s Lock, with Thorpe Low treble locks beyond

This might have been the end of the Chesterfield Canal, but times were changing. Post-war Britain could see the attraction of a revitalised canal network that offered opportunities for leisure and acted as a haven for beleaguered wildlife. Reflecting this new attitude, in 1976 the Chesterfield Canal Society was formed to promote the use of the canal and its eventual restoration.

After several decades of fund raising and countless thousand hours of back-breaking work, many miles of the canal have been reinstated. Today there are less than nine miles left to restore. The Chesterfield Canal Trust (successor to the Chesterfield Canal Society) has set itself a target 2027 for the completion of the restoration, as this would be a fitting way to mark the 250th Anniversary of the opening of the canal.

PHOTO CREDIT: Chesterfield Canal Trust website

Meanwhile, all 46 miles of the towpath are accessible to walkers on what is known as the Cuckoo Way. Although that’s good news for the fit and healthy it sounds a bit too much like hard work to me, so it’s encouraging to know that recreational cruises can be taken on several sections of the canal. Maybe, when things have settled down after Covid, we’ll give it a try!


  1. magarisa · December 2, 2020

    The Chesterfield Canal Trust has done an amazing job! An interesting, well-written post with lovely pictures.

    Liked by 2 people

    • Platypus Man · December 4, 2020

      Thank you! Yes, they’ve done a great job, including a major input from volunteers.

      Liked by 1 person

  2. nationalparkswitht · December 2, 2020

    Nice post! The boat tour looks lovely. Hopefully they’ll run again in Spring

    Liked by 1 person

    • Platypus Man · December 4, 2020

      Thank you! Yes, I think a boat trip will be a pleasant post-Covid treat 🙂.

      Liked by 1 person

  3. krikitarts · December 20, 2020

    We have hopes of being able to do a canal tour at some point, in England, Belgium, France, etc., and I savor the glimpses such as these that you and other bloggers provide. Rather hard to imagine in the immediately-foreseeable future, but some day, hopefully!

    Liked by 1 person

    • Platypus Man · December 20, 2020

      A canal tour would be a great way of seeing parts of the country that are otherwise difficult to access. And what a great way to escape the 21st century rat-race. I hope you get to do it one day.


  4. Carol Ann Siciliano · March 5, 2022

    What a great post! We have a restored early 19th century canal here in Washington DC, with a tow path that now runs 182 miles, called the Chesapeake & Ohio Canal: https://www.canaltrust.org/plan/co-canal-towpath/

    Your photos are beautiful and the story is a very interesting and familiar (poignant, triumphant) one. I love the canal’s connection to the Houses of Parliament. Our canal brought the stones for the U.S. Capitol and other Washington buildings too! You inspire me to visit my canal again soon.

    Liked by 1 person

    • Platypus Man · March 6, 2022

      I can’t take credit for the photos, which are the work of my esteemed wife, Mrs P. While she takes stills I take video, but most of it remains on my laptop, awaiting editing. And yes, canals can be fascinating places to visit, opening a window on a world that it so different to our own, frantic 21st century existence.


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