An earlier post described how the bird cliffs at Sumburgh Head were the highlight of an otherwise miserable trip to Shetland. Getting to Shetland from our home at Platypus Towers was a bit of a pain. The journey involved a drive of over 400 miles, followed by an overnight ferry crossing of around 12 hours.
When we finally got to Shetland the puffins were great to see, but I do wonder why we bothered given that we have some excellent bird cliffs much closer to home.
Bempton Cliffs are little more than 80 miles away from us, in the East Riding of Yorkshire. This area of the Yorkshire coast hosts England’s largest seabird colony, and the Bempton RSPB reserve lies at its heart. It’s always worth a visit, as we confirmed on our way back from Shetland in June. It was, to say the least, an eventful end to our long summer break.
So, for the record, here is our tale of gannets, guillemots and gurgling guts:
We’ve left Scotland and its miserable weather far behind us, and as we walk out from the RSPB visitor centre on a gloriously sunny day our ears are assaulted by the calls of a thousand birds, and our noses detect the unmistakable aroma of a bustling seabird city. We watch, transfixed, as squadrons of gannets patrol the towering cliffs, swooping and soaring along the sheer rock face, escorted from time to time by their loyal wing-men, the fulmars.
The Bempton area boasts one of the best wildlife spectacles in the UK. Around half a million seabirds gather here between March and October to lay their eggs and raise their young on towering chalk cliffs overlooking the North Sea.
Within minutes we spot some puffins going about their business. There are not nearly as many as at Sumburgh Head, nor are the views as intimate. This is, however, our most successful puffin encounter ever at Bempton, and bodes well for the rest of our visit.
Bempton boasts sizeable colonies of razorbills and guillemots. Most cling to the cliff face and are best appreciated through binoculars, but a few come close enough to enjoy with the naked eye. Some of the razorbills are still sitting on eggs, but others proudly show off their chicks.
However, Bempton’s main claim to fame is its gannets. The cliffs have the largest mainland gannet colony in the UK, boasting some 28,000 birds. Each gannet jealously guards its own patch of rock, which it has carefully selected so it can just avoid the angry pecks of its neighbours. Squabbles break out when a bird oversteps the mark and trespasses on a neighbour’s territory.
Meanwhile, other gannets swoop and dive beside the cliffs, and ride the updrafts to hang in the air just feet away from the cliff-top paths. These are big birds, with a wingspan of over 6 feet, and when seen in large numbers flying along the cliffs or wheeling over the ocean they’re a magnificent sight. We watch them for a couple of hours, mesmerised by their grace and elegance, and Mrs P is in danger of wearing out the shutter on her camera.
A visit to Bempton’s bird cliffs during the breeding season is a life-affirming and restorative experience. It’s been a great day, and we round it off with dinner at a modest hostelry close to where we are staying for the night. I wrap myself around a gammon steak, and Mrs P gets up close and personal with lasagne.
The following morning, however, I awake to a gurgling from Mrs P’s guts loud enough to suggest Cuadrilla has opened a new campaign in its fracking business. Within minutes a vile dose of food poisoning has set in.
Mrs P turns a whiter shade of pale, and spends an anxious hour locked in the bathroom. Finally she announces she’s fit enough to travel, but she has her fingers crossed as she speaks so we both fear she’s not going to make it back home with her dignity intact. However, checkout’s at 9:30am, so we have little choice.
The 80 miles drive back to Platypus Towers is, inevitably, a nightmare, and the patient takes about three days to recover from her ordeal.
Mrs P swears she will never eat lasagne again